Time flows here differently. By ferry in the Cyclades

It was almost 5 a.m. when the ferry from Athens began to dock, and the crowds of sleepy passengers moved to file below deck. Even before the trip, I had wondered what we would do in such a place at this hour. However, Katapola, the island’s main port town, was waiting for tourists and passengers with open cafes serving breakfast and aromatic coffee.

As it later turned out, coffee and ferries at Greek islands are inseparable.

The Very Blue Island of Amorgos

Amorgos is the first island in the Cyclades I visited. I don’t know if that’s why it made such an impression on me, or if it was purely because of the views. On Amorgos, the rocky landscape contrasts with the bluest water you can even imagine. It’s not without reason that in 1988 Luc Besson filmed ‘The Big Blue’ here.

One of the most famous film locations is Agia Anna Beach with a small white church at the top, a rocky descent, and that deep blue colour.

Agia Anna, along with the nearby Hozoviotissa Monastery built into the rock, are Amorgos’ most famous attractions. Another is the island’s capital, called, like the capitals of other Greek islands, Chora.

Islands’ Choras

The Cycladic Chora is the best place to get lost. It’s a tangle of white houses, churches, steps, and narrow streets adorned with colourful flowers. Tavernas with picturesque doors and tables await in the squares and wider streets. In the afternoon heat, they are deserted, with only the sounds of hustle coming from the kitchen. Here and there, we encounter locals sitting on the steps, trying to survive another hot day. In the evening, these same tavernas attract visitors from afar bustling and teeming with life.

This combination of white and pastel colours accents also accompanies us in other capitals and Cycladic towns. Chora on Folegandros, Chora on Ios, Naoussa on Paros. The only village on the small island of Koufonisia, part of the so-called Little Cyclades, makes a similar impression. Koufonisia is the easiest to reach of these and was our next stop on the route.

Cyclades: The Most Beautiful?

The Cyclades are said to be the most Greek of the Greek islands. And sometimes even the most beautiful of the 227 inhabited Greek islands. Is this true? I’ll need to leave that question unanswered.

The Cyclades are more than just the most famous, Santorini and Mykonos. The archipelago consists of 24 inhabited islands. The largest of these is Naxos, which was an important centre of the Cyclades in ancient times and has a place in Greek mythology. According to legend, it was on Naxos that Zeus grew up and Theseus abandoned Ariadne. The most famous of the ancient monuments and symbol of Naxos is the Portara, dating back to the 6th century BC, the doorway to a temple that was never fully built.

Today, it’s the best place for a sunset stroll.

The island capital of the Cyclades is Syros and its Chora, or Ermoupoli. The town is the administrative and cultural centre of the archipelago, and due to its blend of Venetian and neoclassical architecture, it looks different from most Cycladic towns. Less white, more colours. Ermoupoli boasts, among other things, a theatre whose architect drew heavily on Milan’s La Scala.

The name Cyclades comes from the word kiklos, meaning circle. This is how the islands are arranged: in a circle around the sacred island of Delos, considered the birthplace of Artemis and Apollo.

Today, it is an archaeological site that can be visited by sailing to the island from the old port of Mykonos.

On Mykonos, seven windmills tower over Chora. It’s one of the symbols of this somewhat celebrity-inspired island. Some of them date back to the 16th century. It’s said that there were around 600 windmills in the entire Cyclades.

Sunsets in the Cyclades

Sunsets in the Cyclades are a real treat. And it’s not just the famous sunsets in Oia, Santorini. Each island has its own distinctive spot that attracts crowds in the evening. On Ios, it’s the hill by the church of Panagia Gremiotissa. On Folegandros, for the most beautiful views of the cliffs, it’s worth climbing to the church of Panagia in Chora. This view captivated me the most.

Ferries and Island Hopping

I don’t know if there’s a more welcoming place in Europe for island-hopping than the Cyclades.

The islands are located close enough together that the journey between them is short and pleasant. There are plenty of ferries, especially during peak season. And the atmosphere of such journeys is unique. Ferries on the islands mark the time and organize life. People talk about ferries by their names.

The wind, which cools and provides respite in the summer, but sometimes disrupts the ferry journey, also has a name. It’s Meltemi, after which many restaurants and guesthouses are named.

Some ports in the Cyclades are simply a stretch of waterfront surrounded by cafes. Piled high with luggage at every table, we wait for the ferries, sipping coffee. Because ferries and coffee are inseparable. We just have to decide whether we’re drinking Freddo Cappuccino or Freddo Espresso.